{"id":31667,"date":"2018-12-24T06:00:12","date_gmt":"2018-12-24T14:00:12","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/cannabiscultivatornews.com\/home\/index.php\/2018\/12\/24\/a-journey-to-the-heart-of-moroccan-hash\/"},"modified":"2018-12-24T12:37:06","modified_gmt":"2018-12-24T20:37:06","slug":"a-journey-to-the-heart-of-moroccan-hash","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cannabiscultivatornews.com\/home\/index.php\/2018\/12\/24\/a-journey-to-the-heart-of-moroccan-hash\/","title":{"rendered":"A Journey to the Heart of Moroccan Hash"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"http:\/\/cannabiscultivatornews.com\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Ketama-Village-Morocco-1.jpg\" width=\"1000\" height=\"600\"> <\/p>\n<p>Picture yourself in a valley with no other crop than cannabis. Everywhere, all you see are plants as tall as your thigh. From the hotel window, you see just the street, abandoned construction and then cannabis stretching over the valley and up the hills \u2014 the crop so valuable that even the steepest mountains are terraced for ganja.<\/p>\n<p>I was first here many years ago, before the European entrepreneurs changed the landscape. The\u00a0<a href=\"\/tag\/hash\/\">hash<\/a>\u00a0then was so impotent I could hardly get high from it.<\/p>\n<p>I was in a teashop in the hills when I lit up an Amsterdam joint and was crowded to share it. I thought that \u201cgood Morroccan hash\u201d was a contradiction in terms.<\/p>\n<p>But I noticed then that the landrace did have some interesting qualities. It didn\u2019t grow bushy or tree-like. A single plant grown alone grew but one single stem \u2014 the perfect strain for growing close together and flowering young in a Sea of Green.<\/p>\n<p>By early September, this variety was finished and reaped. It was set to dry outdoors in the waning heat of summer and then stored in unheated watertight sheds until winter. The freeze was the perfect time for it to be kiefed.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_40182\" style=\"width: 1010px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/cannabisnow.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Ketama-Village-Morocco.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-40182\" src=\"http:\/\/cannabiscultivatornews.com\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Ketama-Village-Morocco.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"600\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"wp-caption-text\">In Ketama, every bit of arable land is planted in cannabis. Sloping areas are leveled using terraces to hold the soil in place.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p>Once the leaves dried, they fell from the plants, leaving stems bare-topped with buds like matches with crowns. Now frozen, the glands remained tenuously attached to the buds. A firm rap against the taut silk screen sent the trichomes into a cloud, then settling and falling through the tiny openings in the cloth. This was the kief, the glands all concentrated.<\/p>\n<p>Those landrace strains that peppered the Rif Mountains are now history, replaced with\u00a0<a href=\"\/species-cannabis-ruderalis-hybrids\/\">hybrids<\/a>\u00a0of landrace and mixed European strains. Every field in the region is subject to wind-driven pollen. There are no exceptions and no way to protect the flowers. There is no sinsemilla, only con semilla.<\/p>\n<h4>Ketama Getaway<\/h4>\n<p>My return to Morocco this summer was based on whim. I was in Amsterdam for 10 days between gigs and I had a wide circle of three-hour flight choices or maybe a bicycle trip in Holland, much postponed. But fatefully, an acquaintance said, \u201cWhy don\u2019t you go to Morocco?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>I mentioned it to my wife Jane and, much to my surprise, she immediately was intrigued, solving our dilemma. We set to planning the trip. To be in Morocco and not to go to Ketama? That could not be, it would have to be a part of our unplanned trip.<\/p>\n<p>We landed in\u00a0Marrakech, a medium-sized city in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains. Every city has its sights, sounds, museums and monuments. What stands out here is the old city\u2019s souk, a combination of residence and bazaar in tight quarters, narrow streets, congestion stores and stalls. Here you can find lamb cut from the carcass, clothing, electronics, toys and spices \u2014 the substances and requirements of daily life.<\/p>\n<p>One-hundred-year-old prints at the\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/maisondelaphotographie.ma\/index.php?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Photo Museum<\/a>\u00a0gave a perspective. We see the same buildings, the same streets, maybe some of the same stores. But now, the men dress western and some of the women, too. The burka crowd has changed from comfy white to black. Scooters and cycles have replaced donkeys. The souk is slowly changing.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_40188\" style=\"width: 1010px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/cannabisnow.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Bags-of-Trim.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-40188\" src=\"http:\/\/cannabiscultivatornews.com\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Bags-of-Trim.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"600\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bags of spent marijuana wait to be processed into hash.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p>After Marrakech, our next stop was Chefchaouen, the\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.thedailybeast.com\/moroccos-secret-all-blue-city\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Blue City<\/a>, nicknamed for the most popular color paint sold there. It\u2019s filled with travelers, restaurants and rug dealers and is a popular tourist city, especially for Moroccans.<\/p>\n<p>Finally, onward to\u00a0Ketama, to the town of Issaguen. Here, in the heart of the area, the Moroccan flag fails to fly. This is the land of the Berbers, who were here before all others, perhaps for thousands of years, protected by fierce fighters and the rugged Rif Mountains.<\/p>\n<p>We rode to Ketama in a grand taxi roomy enough for four on well-kept roads through a constantly changing landscape, climbing towards the foothills.<\/p>\n<p>We saw moist agricultural land and dry. The fields were planted in figs, olives, grapes, wheat and hay. Then, we entered the special area known as Ketama.<\/p>\n<p>At the boundary line, there was a change of crops and the edibles vanished. Here, the fruits of the earth were represented solely by cannabis on every piece of arable land \u2014 flat fields, slopes and flattened hills, mountainsides etched with terraces skillfully hewn using hard labor. Small fields, large fields, backyards, front yards \u2014 all land was covered in cannabis, save home gardens.<\/p>\n<p>We arrived at the depot, a gas station at the end of town. Like bees to flowers we were surrounded by \u201cguides,\u201d touting their tours. This continued until Rashid, a friend of a friend, came to pick us up. With our baggage loaded, we drove back to his home where we were to stay.<\/p>\n<p>Rashid lived with his parents, wife, brother and sister-in-law and their two pre-school-age children. There were also a couple of older women, status undescribed.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/cannabisnow.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Harvesting-Cannabis-Plants.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40178\" src=\"http:\/\/cannabiscultivatornews.com\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Harvesting-Cannabis-Plants.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"600\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The house was built around an inner courtyard where the women worked in summer. They left only to labor in the fields and for weddings, funerals and the like.<\/p>\n<p>The guestrooms and single men\u2019s quarters looked out at the fields and the family rooms and bedroom looked in \u2014 a clear separation. Going into town you\u2019d think you were in a gay community. It was men, men, men and not a woman in sight, not in the diner or bar, nowhere. Except for the occasional Western woman.<\/p>\n<p>Western women are a unique category in Ketama, treated as men, as \u201chonorary men.\u201d So there is no commotion when Jane and I walk in to eat or go to a store, but I think if we were locals it would be a different story.<\/p>\n<p>Our host places us in a fairly uncomfortable room and feeds us late in the evening only when we ask to eat. The next day we are welcome to walk and photograph the fields, including his fields and the neighbor\u2019s field, but we are isolated and bored, as Rachid disappeared during a good part of the day.<\/p>\n<p>When he returns, we tell him the news that we are leaving, which I suspect is a relief for him. As a gesture of friendship, he takes us to see his cousin up the mountain.<\/p>\n<p>He built a plateau at the top tip, now he\u2019s constructing the house. It has a 360-degree view of the valleys below, the small villages, the fields starting in the valleys.<\/p>\n<p>The property climbs up the hills, with wide plots between terraces, then thin slivers as it steepens.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_40186\" style=\"width: 1010px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/cannabisnow.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Male-Cannabis-Plant-Roots.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-40186\" src=\"http:\/\/cannabiscultivatornews.com\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Male-Cannabis-Plant-Roots.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"600\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"wp-caption-text\">Male plants are pulled up, placed in piles and eventually fed to the livestock. Goats love cannabis.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p>We have decided to move into the town, Issaguen, the cultural center of the area.<\/p>\n<p>It specializes in irrigation and hardware stores, cafes with lots of men idling over their cups and that\u2019s about it. The go-to eating establishment serves vegetables and salad as its specialty. The only entr\u00e9e is rotisserie chicken, which is surprisingly good.<\/p>\n<p>The view from my room\u2019s window at the Grand Hotel Ketama: the cannabis fields start across the main road and a seasonal riverbed. No need for a hike to see the fields, they\u2019re just a walk crosstown.<\/p>\n<h4>Growing Cannabis Plants in Ketama<\/h4>\n<p>Let me begin by saying that if you were expecting a jungle, you\u2019ll be disappointed<\/p>\n<p>When I was there 30 years ago the plants were taller, 4 or 5 feet, but now that they\u2019re hybridized they are shorter.<\/p>\n<p>The original landrace was a single-stem plant that ripened in late August through mid-September. It was weak, low in\u00a0<a href=\"\/tag\/thc\/\">THC<\/a>\u00a0and made low-quality hash. Then, the European buyers brought in seeds, more and more seeds.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_40180\" style=\"width: 1010px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/cannabisnow.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Ketama-Cannabis-Field.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"wp-image-40180 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/cannabiscultivatornews.com\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Ketama-Cannabis-Field.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"600\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fields of cannabis in Ketama, Morroco are being grown for hash.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p>In Ketama, some plants are\u00a0<i>con\u00a0<\/i><i>semilla<\/i>(with seed), as most males release their pollen so the population\u2019s a mixed-up hybrid. No farmer can keep his field pure even if cleared of males because dust from males in surrounding fields would pollinate the crop. So be it. Each year, with more imported seed, this hybrid crop grows stronger.<\/p>\n<p>Each farmers\u2019 plot looked different from the next. Some strains looked more like this or that, descendants in part of favorites of years past. Some were like Blue Dream or maybe another hybrid, while another group was heavily\u00a0<a href=\"\/tag\/indica\/\">indica<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>The seeds were planted very close to each other, probably 10-12 seeds per square foot. Not all germinated, as others died early or were choked from canopy by faster neighbors. Each plant had only one stem and focused attention on its claim to canopy space. All of these fields, including the vigorous ones, were Sea of Green plantings.<\/p>\n<p>The cannabis plants in Morocco flower early. While September 22 is the equinox when there is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness on all points of the earth, plants grown outdoors here start to flower much earlier, often in August, indicating that they require only 9-10 hours of darkness or even less. In Morocco, on June 22 \u2014 first day of summer \u2014 there are 8 hours 39 minutes of darkness and on July 22, there are 9 hours and three minutes.<\/p>\n<p>The females were just starting to flower in late July. They will be ripe mid to late September, when the age-old process of making the region\u2019s famed hash begins.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_40184\" style=\"width: 1010px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/cannabisnow.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Morocco-Rif-Mountains.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-40184\" src=\"http:\/\/cannabiscultivatornews.com\/home\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/12\/Morocco-Rif-Mountains.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"600\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Rif Mountains define the hash making region of Morocco.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p><em>\u00a0<\/em><em>Originally published in Issue 33 of Cannabis Now.\u00a0<\/em><a href=\"\/print-digital-magazine\"><strong>LEARN MORE<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n<p><em><b>TELL US<\/b><\/em><em>, have you ever had the chance to sample some Moroccan hash?<\/em><\/p>\n<p>The post <a rel=\"nofollow\" href=\"https:\/\/cannabisnow.com\/a-journey-to-the-heart-of-moroccan-hash\/\">A Journey to the Heart of Moroccan Hash<\/a> appeared first on <a rel=\"nofollow\" href=\"https:\/\/cannabisnow.com\">Cannabis Now<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>&#013;<br \/>\n&#013;<br \/>\nRead More: <a href=\"https:\/\/cannabisnow.com\/a-journey-to-the-heart-of-moroccan-hash\/\" target=\"_blank\">A Journey to the Heart of Moroccan Hash<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Picture yourself in a valley with no other crop than cannabis. Everywhere, all you see are plants as tall as your thigh. From the hotel window, you see just the street, abandoned construction and then cannabis stretching over the valley and up the hills \u2014 the crop so valuable that<span class=\"more-link\"><a href=\"https:\/\/cannabiscultivatornews.com\/home\/index.php\/2018\/12\/24\/a-journey-to-the-heart-of-moroccan-hash\/\">Continue Reading<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":63,"featured_media":31668,"comment_status":"false","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[59,6877,50,918,85,1811,6071,104,6878,4752,6879,107,420],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/cannabiscultivatornews.com\/home\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/31667"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/cannabiscultivatornews.com\/home\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/cannabiscultivatornews.com\/home\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cannabiscultivatornews.com\/home\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/63"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cannabiscultivatornews.com\/home\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=31667"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/cannabiscultivatornews.com\/home\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/31667\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":31669,"href":"https:\/\/cannabiscultivatornews.com\/home\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/31667\/revisions\/31669"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cannabiscultivatornews.com\/home\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/31668"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/cannabiscultivatornews.com\/home\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=31667"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cannabiscultivatornews.com\/home\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=31667"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cannabiscultivatornews.com\/home\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=31667"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}